This page is set up to provide our readers with Tech
and safety tips on keeping their motorcycles running for a long time. All of the
items below are tips that we have read about, experienced or have been informed
of by people who ride motorcycles. Even though we take care to insure that
everything printed on these pages is accurate, Green Country Cycle City is
NOT responsible for how these tips might affect your particular motorcycle. Use them at your own risk.
With that out of the way - if you have any tips that you would like to include in these pages, OR if you have any technical questions for us, please feel free to e-mail to: answers@gchonda.com
In the August, 1997 issue of MOTORCYCLE CONSUMER NEWS
and then finalized in the November, 1997 issue, MCN detailed accounts of
motorcyclists that encountered severe problems with mainly their water pumps if
they were using antifreeze (coolants) that were designed for automobiles.
"Our first findings were that the vast majority (98.7%) of pump failures
occurred on bikes that had had their cooling systems flushed, or drained and
refilled, within the past year. Secondly, of the bikes with failed pumps, 99%
had been filled with automotive-type coolants, such as Prestone, Zerex or a
house brand from some parts chain like Pep Boys. Less than 1% of the bikes with
failed pumps had used pre-mixed Hondaline coolant or another motorcycle-specific
anti-freeze."
They went on to say that if you currently have automotive silicate-bearing coolant in your bike now, get it out as soon as possible and replace it with a motorcycle-specific coolant like Hondaline Pro Honda HP Coolant.
This tip comes from a Motorcycle Safety Foundation bulletin on "What you should know about Motorcycle Helmets" Replacing Your Helmet:
"Plan to replace your helmet if it is
involved in an accident; it probably absorbed some impact shock. Some helmet
manufactures will inspect and, when possible, repair a damaged helmet. If you
drop your helmet and think it might be damaged, take advantage of this
service."
Most helmet manufacturers recommend replacing your helmet every two to four years. If you notice any signs of damage before then, replace it sooner.
Why replace a helmet every few years if it doesn't appear damaged? Its protective qualities may deteriorate with time and wear. The chinstrap may fray or loosen, or the shell could be chipped or banged. Probably the best reason, however, is that helmets keep improving. Chances are that the helmet you buy now will be better, stronger, lighter and more comfortable than the one you bought several years ago.
CAUTION WHEN USING!.....
After-market oil filters. There have been numerous reports of problems involving after-market oil filters. Always use the manufactures recommendations when replacing parts. You might pay a little more, but it may be well worth it in the long run. Below is a recall notice on Allied Signal and Fram Motorcycle Oil Filters. This came from Consumer Reports magazine website: www.consumerreports.org
Automobile oils in motorcycles:
Although most automobile oils will work fine in most motorcycles,
there are reports that indicate that some are not suitable. Rather than try to
weed out those that are compatible with motorcycles vs. those that are not, we
recommend using a motorcycle oil for motorcycles, a car oil for cars, boat oils
for boats, airplane oils for..... well you get the idea.
Windshield cleaners: Read the
labels closely. There are many cleaners out there that are NOT suitable for use
on the materials that motorcycle windshields are made of. They can damage the
shield.
Brake fluid: Be sure you put in the
proper brake fluid when changing or topping off the brake reservoir. Damage will
occur if you use the wrong stuff or mix incompatible materials. Also, do not get
any of the brake fluid on any painted surfaces.
It is important to remember a few things when "storing" your bike for winter. In and around the Tulsa area, the weather does not get severe enough to really warrant putting your bike to bed all winter. There are many days that it will warm up enough to allow you to take the bike out for a good run. If you can do this - do it! Do it as often as possible.
Next:
Take care of the battery. It is better if you remove it
from the bike (motorcycle or ATV) and keep it charged. There are several good,
low amperage chargers out there. One that I particularly like is the Battery
Tender. Check out Green Country Cycle City as they always keep these in stock.
NEVER use a charger designed for an automobile. It has too high amperage for these small batteries. 1 - 2 amps is all that is recommended.
If you are going to store the bike for a long time (6 months or more), drain the fuel tank and carburetors. If you are not going to store it too long, add a good fuel stabilizer in the fuel take and run the engine until the fuel stabilizer is in the carburetors as well. When you go to start it, drain the fuel out of the carburetors first, then open the petcock and allow "fresh" tank fuel in. The fuel in the tanks will likely be better than the fuel left in the carburetor.
This is also an excellent time to give your bike an oil change. The acids that build up in oil will be present during the storage process if you do not get rid of them. Use a motorcycle oil and change the filter as well.
Check out a great site entitled "Motorcycle Tips & Techniques" in our LINKS page.
Can "wheelies" damage your engine? - YES! Some sport bikes have oil pumps that are designed to draw oil from the front of the engine. If you do a wheel stand (front wheel off the ground) it is possible that the oil pump will draw air. If that happens - the parts of the engine that have to have oil, may not. It does not take long for an engine to seize if it has no oil. Severe damage will occur. If the manufactures decide that is the reason for the damage - guess what? They likely will void your warranty. It's best to keep both wheels on the ground.
Own a Honda CBR929/954?? Use premium fuel only! Use SAE 20W-50
viscosity motorcycle oil or 10W-40 viscosity hydrocarbon-based motorcycle oil, like Honda GN-4. Do not use 10W-30.
TIRE PRESSURE is VERY important to the handling
of your motorcycle. You only have two tires (typically) and both of them are quite (very) important. What we recommend is keep your tire pressure to within 2 - 4 psi of the MAXIMUM that is stamped on your tire. Always check your tires when they are cold and remember that outside temperature will affect the pressure in the tire. On colder, winter days your tire pressure will be lower, if fact, it could reduce the pressure too low for reliable riding. Be sure you always start out with the correct tire pressure!
TIRE PLUGS - we say they are for
emergencies only . Get that tire changed ASAP!
Riding in hot weather can be dangerous. Of course we all do it and it can be safe if we do a few things to prevent us from overheating. The most important thing is fluids. You MUST replace the fluids that you rapidly lose while driving. A combination of heat and air moving past you will dehydrate the body FAST - much faster than you think or may feel. Stop often, cool off and drink plenty of water - lots of water - OFTEN.
Wheel Stands (wheelies): Yes, they're fun to watch and fun to do but they are dangerous and can harm your bike. Some sport bikes draw oil from the front of the engine. Even a short wheel stand may be enough to starve the cylinders of vital lubrication, damaging your engine. If a manufacture determines that the engine problem you are having is a result of you doing wheelies - you may have to pay that costly bill yourself - the warranty could be voided.
SIDE STANDS; these little babies are notorious for failing and dropping that prize possession on the ground. Best defense - don't trust them. Leave your bike in gear, push it forward until it stops (in gear) and then put the side stand down - ALL THE WAY DOWN!
RECALL ON MICHELIN TIRES (May/2000): Michelin Tire
Company of North America (1-800-346-4098) has recalled all of its brand Gold
Standard motorcycle tires due to potential vibration and handling issues.
